The National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) has published the 3rd edition of the Residential Construction Performance Guidelines to help you avoid the most common building and remodeling problems. Wheather you're building your dream home or renovating your present home, you have a level of expectation of the finished product. The last thing you expected with this new project was grief with your contractor. Disputes over just what needs to be done to fix a problem can be avoided if you and your contractor agree to bide by the "Guidelines". Frustration and sleepless nights may be instore if the contract doesn't include a reference to the Residential Construction Performance Guidelines. Prior to signing a binding agreement with a builder or remodeler, we highly recommend including language that includes the Residential Construction Performance Guidelines. This document outlines what is unacceptable and how a contractor shall repair or replace items in dispute. Contact Safe & Sound for a copy of the "Guidelines".

More information coming soon.

Structured wiring is a generic term describing the different types of wiring used in modern homes. It allows for all the different types of wiring and their signals in a modern home to be easily wired with a single cable. Historically, very old homes were not wired at all, then knob-and-tube came along, and then two and three wire systems. 21st Century homes require advanced wiring to include those for cable TV, telephone, video and audio. Structured wiring is conveniently bundled into a single sheathed cable that includes several separate wires inside. Manufacturers of structured wiring bundle wires differently. All bundles are not created equal. Bundling comes in various configurations, so plan ahead and consider high quality cable that wont degrade signal quality and performance.  Structured wiring should include at least 2 coaxial cables of RG-6 quality (for VCR and DVD signaling) and 2 twisted cables that are category 5 (CAT 5) or higher in quality (for DSL and telecommunications). Fiber optics are the way of the future, so including this type of wired signal in the structured wire that you're installing.

Partially due to the recent skyrocketing cost of copper, PEX is an ideal alternative for the hot and cold supply line plumbing system. PEX is an acronym for Cross Linked Polyethylene. PEX is a potable water pipe material that is able to withstand high temperature and is flexible. PEX is becoming more common place in the market as contractors become familiar with its advantages and comfortable with its performance record. Europeans have been using PEX for about 30 years. In 1984, PEX was introduced for use in radiant floor heating, and more recently, for domestic water distribution systems. The system is approved for all model codes in Canada and the US.

THE ADVANTAGES OF PEX

• Corrosion Resistance – PEX piping will not pit or rust.
• Energy Efficiency – PEX piping minimizes heat transmission through the pipe wall.
• Scaling Resistance – PEX pipe’s smooth interior walls and chemical properties make it resistant to mineral build-up.
• Cost Effectiveness – PEX plumbing systems are less labor intensive and can optimize system performance.
• Availability of Pipe Sizes – PEX piping is available in a wide range of diameters.
• Resistance to Freeze Damage – Under most circumstances, water in the pipe can be frozen and thawed without damaging the pipe.
• Water Conservation – Well designed PEX plumbing systems can reduce the wait time for hot water to reach the fixture.
• Environmentally Sound – PEX is an inert material and does not contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs).
• Certification – PEX pipes and fittings must meet strict performance requirements.
• Ease of Installation – PEX pipe uses mechanical connections, eliminating the need for solders, flames, and chemicals. Its flexible nature allows it to bend around obstructions. Use of manifolds can speed installation and improve performance.

This technology relies on the Earth’s natural thermal energy, about 70% renewable resource, to heat or cool a house (even commercial buildings). Electricity to run a pump is the only additional energy needed in a geothermal system. One geothermal system does the work of two separate units, (furnace and air conditioner). It is located indoors because there’s no need to exchange heat with the outdoor air. It operates so quietly, most people don’t even realize they’re on. Also, geothermal systems can provide inexpensive hot water, either to supplement or completely replace your water tank.

Geothermal systems work on a different principle than an ordinary furnace and air conditioning system, and they require little maintenance or attention from homeowners. Furnaces must create heat by burning fuel (natural gas, propane, or fuel oil). With geothermal, there’s no need to create heat, hence no need for chemical combustion. Instead, the Earth’s natural heat is collected in winter through a series of pipes, called a loop, installed below the surface of the ground or submerged in a pond or lake. Fluid circulating in the loop carries this heat to the home. An indoor geothermal system then uses electrically driven compressors and heat exchangers in a vapor compression cycle (the same principle employed in a refrigerator) to concentrate the Earth’s energy and release it inside the home at a higher temperature.

In summer, the process is reversed in order to cool the home. Excess heat is drawn from the home, expelled to the loop, and absorbed by the Earth. Geothermal systems provide cooling in the same way that a refrigerator keeps food cool, by drawing heat out of the interior.

Geothermal works differently than conventional heat pumps that use the outdoor air as their heat source or heat sink. Geothermal systems don’t have to work as hard (which means they use less energy) because they draw heat from a source whose temperature is moderate. The temperature of the ground or groundwater a few feet beneath the Earth’s surface remains relatively constant throughout the year, even though the outdoor air temperature may fluctuate greatly with the change of seasons. At a depth of approximately six feet, for example, the temperature of soil in most of the world’s regions remains stable between 45°F and 70°F. This is why well water drawn from below ground tastes so cool even on the hottest summer days.

In winter, it’s much easier to capture heat from the soil at a moderate 50°F than from the atmosphere when the air temperature is below zero. This is also why geothermal systems encounter no difficulty blowing comfortably warm air through a home’s ventilation system, even when the outdoor air temperature is extremely cold. Conversely, in summer, the relatively cool ground absorbs a home’s waste heat more readily than the warm outdoor air.

These construction techniques help block radon from entering the home. Indoor air quality (IAQ) is dramatically improved, making for a much healthier home.

If high radon levels are found, the techniques allow for easy and inexpensive installation of a fan for increased radon reduction in the home. Every home should be tested for radon to ensure your families long-term health.

It is more cost effective to include radon resistant techniques while building a home, rather than installing a radon reduction system in an existing home. Costs for new build radon resistant techniques are $350-$500 vs retrofitting an existing home at $800-$2,500. This can be a marketing advantage when its time to sell.

There are five major parts to the passive radon resistant system:

• A layer of gas permeable material under the foundation (usually 4 inches of gravel)
• Plastic over the gas permeable material.
• Sealant and proper caulking on all openings in the concrete foundation floor.
• A gas tight, 4 inch vent pipe that runs from under the foundation through the house to the roof.
• A roughed in electrical junction box for the future installation of a fan. The addition of the fan changes the system from passive to active.

These features create a physical barrier to radon entry. The vent pipe prevents radon from entering your home by drawing the radon from below the house and venting it to the air outside.